英国男士服饰的变迁.ppt

Menswear in Medieval Times (5 th-1 5 th ) during Renaissance (1 6 th-1 7 th) in the Baroque Era（ 1 7 th -1 8 th ） in Victorian Era (1 8 3 7 -1 9 0 1 ) in Modern Times In medieval period, the Roman Catholic Church held sway over many European countries including England. The church preached asceticism禁 欲 主 义 ,opposed extravagance and advocated simple and plain clothing style. Middle Ages Several features: Three major colors: black white gray The main textiles: woolen cloth for the nobility; linen cloth 亚 麻 for the humble The relation between clothing and social status: Brighter colors, better materials, and a longer jacket length were usually signs of greater wealth. The man in the picture wears the basic medieval garments: a tunic, probably of wool, slightly fitted with a high neck and long sleeves, usually worn over a linen shirt. At that time, menswear and womens dress were quite alike. The Renaissance was slow in reaching England in the early 1 6 th century. The new feeling of admiration for human beauty and human achievement was owned by more and more British people. The clothing at that time seemed to an effective tool to indicate the physiological differences between male and female, for instance, it become much skintight to show the body curve. A great number of extra filling materials were added in the jacket (上 衣 ) to add breadth to shoulders as well as chest, and the lower part of the body was tightly wrapped. This kind of garment highlighted the beauty of masculine, for man in this outfit looked stronger ,taller. The Baroque Era(巴 洛 克 时 代 ) It was an extraordinary age that mens clothing was usually at least as elaborate and luxurious as womens clothing. Luxurious fabrics: lace, ribbon, silkDecorative ornament: jewelry, embroideryBright colors: red, yellow, goldenSplendor symbolized power and statusMain features: Fancy, splendid, elaborate menswear at that time seems to be foppish and effeminate nowadays. n A rather large falling collar 软 榻 领encompasses much of the shouldersn Beautiful embroidery n Lace cuffp The heels were increased in heightp Tied with ribbon Scottish kilt(基 尔 特 ) The kilt originated from the traditional dress of the men and boy in the Scottish highland. Today most Scotsmen regard kilt as formal dress or national dress. It is generally worn at wedding or other formal occasions, much the same as tailcoat in England. Up to now, it has become a sign of the Scottish national culture. A Scottish national costume includes: a knee-length kilt, a color with matching vest and a tweed jacket, a long-barreled knit thick socks.Leather skirt with wide belt fastened, hanging below a big purse, tweed skirt hanging in the middle of the front, and sometimes shoulders also disclosed an oblique plaid blanket, pinned in the left shoulder at the stuck. 一 条 长 度 及 膝 的 方 格 呢 裙 ， 一 件 色 调 与 之 相配 的 背 心 和 一 件 花 呢 夹 克 ， 一 双 长 筒 针 织 厚袜 。 裙 子 用 皮 质 宽 腰 带 系 牢 ， 下 面 悬 挂 一 个大 腰 包 ， 挂 在 花 呢 裙 子 前 面 的 正 中 央 ， 有 时肩 上 还 斜 披 一 条 花 格 呢 毯 ， 用 卡 子 在 左 肩 处卡 住 。 A kilt covers the body from the waist down to the center of the knees. The overlapping layers in front are called aprons and are flat; the single layer of fabric around the sides and back is pleated. Wearing nothing beneath the kilt, may causes some embarrassments. The Victorian Era Victorian style are from 1 8 3 7 to 1 9 0 1 during the reign of Queen( two industrial revolutions included). the empire on which the sun never sets Main textile: cotton Fabrics (established colonies in India ) , wool Key features: darker & plainer The Victorian Era（ 1 8 3 7 -1 9 0 1 ） Tailcoat（ night dress） Morning coat Tailcoat (燕 尾 服 ):Origin: the UK, the 1 8 th century , an evolution of cavalry clothingHow: Coats were cut this way was to make it easier for the wearer to ride a horse. But it is extremely beautiful. Thus, cavalry clothing had become fashion. Main features: A coat with the front of the skirt cut away, so as to leave only the rear section of the skirt A dark evening coat dress： be dressed after 6 p.m., for formal evening occasions Morning coat（ 晨 礼 服 ） Morning coat shared the same origin with Tailcoat and was also an evolution of cavalry clothing. It is a formal dress for men to dress during the daytime usually before 6 p.m. at formal occasion, as the same level of Tailcoat. It started from 1 8 7 4 , prevailed in 1 8 9 8 . At that time, it was the attire for British gentlemen to ride a horse , also called Riding Item 骑 马 服 . Tailcoat暗 夜 之 王 VS Morning coat阳 光 王 子 White bowknot VS colored tie Stand-up collar VS turn-down collar Waist length in the front and sides, and has two long tails reaching to the knees in back VS single breasted with one button and with peaked lapels White single-breasted vest VS colored double-breasted vest Black trousers VS striped or checked trousers with braces Modern TimesBritish Style(英 伦 风 ） British Style is generally originated from England Oxford, Cambridge and other famous universities of students in the usual costumes, mainly in stripes and grid-based. Compared to the elegance of Paris, luxury of Milan, simplicity in New York ,the British Style seems to always sided with the temperament. Question & AnswerA news reported that The Scottish Tartans Authority has decreed that refusing to put on underwear beneath a kilt is “childish and unhygienic不 卫 生 的 . But Scotlands kilt wearers condemned the advice. One said that “Kilts are from the past and so is the tradition of not wearing any underwear. Im proud to be a true Scotsman. Its a tradition that should be left alone.” What do you think? Should Scotsmen wear their kilts without underwear, or just put on for the sake of hygiene? 2 0 1 5 年 4 月 1 7 日