服装基本制造流程

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1、How To Make Up A Garme ntThe requirements for the manufacture of specific garments:The garme nts to be manu factured lead to desig ning the process of manu facture, which forms the basis of the seque nee of operati ons in the sew ing room, whose work content is measured by their standard times. Furt

2、her the type of garment stro ngly in flue nces the stitch type selected and the basic mach inery used in the operati ons. The large comp onent in the workplace layout in flue nces the size of work-place required for the operati ons. The orga ni zati on of in specti on also stems partly from the type

3、 of garme nt.The feasible way to plan the production for the manufacture of specific garment is to produce a manufacturing specification sheet, from which we could state the general requirements to direct the method to making up the garment. For example, operation, machine type, seam type, stitch ty

4、pe, stitch density, and quality requireme nt (if possible).Method to prepare specification sheet:a. Analyse the structure of the specific garment.b. Break down the operation required to produce the requirement of each component, for example: the specific feature designed in the garment will require

5、special methods, equipme nt, and attachme nt to be used to satisfy the requireme nt.c. Determi ne the suitability of the prese nt equipme nt and machi nery, which will in flue nee the method to be used to make up the garme nt.d. Compile the customer s requirement, quality requirement and toleranee.D

6、esign Pattern marking Sample makingSpreadi ng Marker maki ng Pattern Gradi ngCutting Fusing * Bundling SewingFinished GarmentFin ishi ng1) DesignThe first step in producing a garment is the creation of the design and the con structi on of patter ns for the comp onents in the desig n. A good apparel

7、design has three parameters:- emotional appeal (style), utility, and durability.The apparel manufacturer measures style objectively with a relative scale the profitable scale of the product.2) Pattern makingThe designer creates specific products in accordance with the trends. The Pattern maker draft

8、s the pattern n ecessary to produce the creati on. Apparel pattern are made with one of two basic methods:-a. Drap ing the garme nt on a form or model with musli n or the fabrics used to make the garment. The production pattern is traced from the muslin or fabric cuts. (Tailor Made)b. Drafting the p

9、attern on paper with either direct measurements for the pattern or developing the pattern draft with the aid of a sloper (basic block).3) Sample makingIn the garment industry, it is traditional to indicate the requirement by means of a sample garment. The sample may be mock up (quickly make) of the

10、designers or purchasers basic idea or requirement or it may show the requireme nt in detail.The sample is necessary to illustrate those aspects of design and manufacture which it is not possible (of practical) to describe in detail in words e.g. shapes of collars, pockets, flaps, etc. In gen eral, i

11、t is possible to illustrate many of the features by means of drawings or photographs, but people engaged in garme nt producti on would usually find engin eeri ng type draw ings difficult to understand without special training. Hence, the use of samples can ensure the manu facturer to un dersta nd th

12、e types of garme nt requested by customer and the correct producti on methods used for the further bulk producti on.a) Types of samples:Basically, there are Four types of samples:1. In itially sample2. Approval sample3. Salesman sample/Size set sample4. Shipme nt sampleI) Initially samplesPreparatio

13、 n:a) Material: should be the same material as requested by customers or as closeas possible if un available.b) Colour: try to match the requirement if possible.c) Accessories: Use the exact requested accessories or as close as possible.In specti on:a) Dime nsion: measureme nt should be kept as the

14、producti on sheet if in dicated.b) Silhouette: according to the design illustration.c) Design detail: should follow the sketch exactly.d) Fitting: take care of the effect of cutting whether it is in proportion to the huma n figure and the draft ing effect etc.II) Approval samplesPreparatio n:a) Mate

15、rial: should use the same material as requested by customers.b) Colour: match the requireme nt.c) Accessories: use the exact requested accessories.In specti on:a) Dime nsion: measureme nt should be kept as the producti on sheet as well as the measureme nt chart.b) Silhouette: must be kept according

16、to the design illustration.c) Desig n detail: should follow exactly the producti on desig n sheet.d) Fitti ng: take care of the effect of cutt ing whether it is in proporti on to the huma n figure and the draft ing effect etc.e) Sewing faults:-stitch formati on; -seam puckeri ng;-stitch tension;- se

17、am slippage;-n eedle heat and so on.III) Salesman sample (size set)Preparati on:a) Material: must use the same material without any alternation.b) Colour: Any colour selected from customers in the order sheet.c) Accessories: must use the exact requested accessories.In specti on:a) Dimension: measure

18、ment should be kept as the production sheet (size specificati on).b) Silhouette: must be kept according to the design illustration.c) Desig n detail: should follow exactly the producti on desig n sheet.d) Fitti ng: Take care of the effect of cutt ing whether the pattern could make accord in gly and

19、it is in proporti on to the huma n figure and its draft ing effect.e) Sewing faultsIV) Shipment sample (Production sample)Everythi ng must be con formed to the customer s requireme nts.4) Pattern gradingIt is the drafting process of enlarging or diminishing a style pattern into patter ns for other s

20、izes. The fun cti on of grad ing is to see that this is accomplished with proper fit for the other size without changing the style sense of the orig inal model.5) Marker makingBefore the cutter can beg in his cutt ing operatio n, he has to have some pla n of operations. Marking the fabric itself, in

21、 its simplest form, was originally marking in round a patter n the shape to cut by means of cray on, chalk or other making implement. The first step in calculating the optimum marker design is determining the basic geometric design of the marker. This is done by in spect ing the grain markings on th

22、e patter ns. The sec ond step is to list or n ote the len gth of the warp and filli ng dime nsion in each pattern. Si nee most patter ns are not recta ngular, this means that two or more measureme nts must be taken for each dimension. The third step differs slightly with respect to the basic desig n

23、 type. The patter ns that widths are marked in parallel formati on across to the width. In patter ns with tapered widths, maximum in terlock efficie ncy results by in vert ing the alter nate patter ns in a manner, which in terlocks a n arrow width with a wide width. The marker makes no tes the uprig

24、ht and in verted correlati on required equalli ng the full width of the fabric. The application of pattern engineering is the shifting of seams to make the best use of cloth width. In one case, three trouser backs could be laid in 43” and four trouser fronts in 47” . The cloth width available was 45

25、shift ing the side seam add in g1/2 ” to the backs and tak ing 1/2” from theit was possible to lay three backs and four front in exactly 45”6) SpreadingThe cloth is brought to the cutt ing table to be laid, ply on ply, or in sin gle plies. The cloth may be spread on the table manually, or by machine

26、. The procedure of cloth spread ing is the plac ing of the material on the cutt ing table, laying one piece upon another, to a predetermined length. In giving consideration to the use of machinery, volume is usually the deciding factor, although quality and handling may be factors as well. Spreading

27、 is made easier by the use of spreading machines. Good spreading should result in a lay, in which each ply lies perfectly flat, without tension.7) CuttingAfter spread ing, the mark in g-i n must be carried out, so that the cutter will know what shapes and in what manner he is to cut up the lay. Mark

28、 in g-in may be done by marking directly on to the cloth, using perforated markers or by using paper markers. After marking-in the cutting operation is carried out. This may be by means of a portable cutt ing mach ine to do the en tire operati on, or dissect ing the lay into secti ons with a cutt in

29、g mach ine, and the n cutt ing it on a ban d-k nife. For some applicati ons it is possible to cut the en tire lay by using a die-press mach ine. After the various parts have bee n cut, the cut parts are passed into the sewing room. Various pieces of equipment are used during the procedure of spread

30、ing, marki ng and cutt ing.8) FusingIt is a method of jo ining fabric parts using tech niq ues similar to press ing. Just as press ing uses heat, pressure and moisture to obta in its effect, so fusing uses heat, pressure and sometimes moisture, but duri ng a measured time spa n, to obtain to its eff

31、ect. The aim of fusing is to bond interlining to outer fabric in such areas as collar, cuffs, facin gs, lapels, edges, pockets and foreparts. The active age nt in fusing is the resin, which coats the in terli ning. Whe n interlining and outer cloth are pressed together under heat the adhesive resin

32、melts and flows into the outer cloth. When the pressure is released, the fused parts cool, the resin solidifies and the bonding is complete. The factors to con sider are the type of coat ing the type of resin, methods of test ing the bond, the process itself, and equipment for fusing.9) BundlingA nu

33、 mber of garme nts tied up together for carry ing in some producti on system of clothi ng in dustries. The manner of foldi ng or superpos ing the plies in the bundles should be such that there is (a) minimum or no creasing, and (b) minimum or no disarraying of the cut alignment. Any deviation from t

34、hese two prin ciples in creases the pick-up and positi oning time for the sew ing operator. (Bun dli ng can be done before or after fusin g).10) Necessary procedures for some special design of garmentsa) Pleating skirt, we need to overlook and hemming and then send out for pleati ng.b) Embroidery, s

35、mocking, quilting, pin tuck etc.c) Re-cut or Re-bundle after the (a) or (b) process.11) SewingThe prin ciples of garme nt con structi on concern:-The assembly of fabric parts to make a garment,-The addition of working parts to enable the wearer to put on and take off the garme nt-The decoration of t

36、he garment by stitching on the surface of the fabric and-The insertion of pockets whether decorative or functional sewing quality sta ndard do stro ngly in flue nce besides the style and desig n of the specific garment and the type of fabric and blends of the fibre content.They will affect the choic

37、e of:Seam typeStitch typeStitch den sity Sewi ng thread-Attachment/Guides requirement-Workplace design-Han dli ng method- How to breakdow n the operati onSewi ng mach ined used (related to a & b)12) FinishingThis in cludi ng hemmi ng, wash ing, butt on holes sew ing, butt on sew ing, trim ming, han

38、d-stitch, final press ing and final in specti on. The n eed to press garments during and after manufacture is a basic requirement to form and shape a specific desig n. The effect is to give an eye-catch ing appeal to the wearer, to present a clean and smart appearance,together with a distinctive and

39、 flattering silhouette. Under-press and off-press of a specific will be different according to the physical requirement and the quality standard:-(a) Type of pressing equipment used(i) Hand iron(ii) Steam iron with or without heating element(iii) Steam press (Hoffman type) with special Bucks e.g. sl

40、eeves, collar, shoulder, open seam.(iv) Steam body former(v) Shirt ironing system and folding system(vi) Ironing table(b) Temperature, pressure & vacuum adjustment(c) Pressing methodFinal inspection -tolerance and the standard of quality control will affect the inspection method used to measure the

41、acceptance of the order, this is stron gly subject to the man ageme nt policy:(a) Workmanship(b) Dimension(c) Packing detailsPacking may have two major functions: distribution and merchandising. The basic types of package forms used in apparel and allied products are bags, boxes, cartons & cases.C.

42、Special problems related to the specific garme nt1) Different types of garment would have different production problems. They might be caused either one or more of the follow ing factors:A. Design of the garment -Pattern cutting, material used, and the make up of Garme nt.B. Customer requirements -

43、special effects added to the specific garment, Adjustme nt and particulars.C. Quality requirements -Seam type, stitch type, toleranee etc.The special problems to make up the specific garment in the production processes may be classified as:i) Cutti ng problemsii) Fus ing problemsiii) Sewi ng problem

44、siv) Press ing problemsBesides the manu facture process, there may be a special problem in pack ing specific garme nt.a. Nature of material used -fabric, sewing thread, interlining, lining and Accessories used etc.b. Machinery and Equipment use -cutting tools, spreading method related to the machine

45、 used, fusing machine, ironing and pressing equipment have a close relationship to tackle the special problems of specific garment.c. Making up method used -the handling method used at the workplace, special skill required, and the skilfulness of individual operative.d. Effectiveness of Quality Cont

46、rol and Inspection.Special problems of specific garment sometimes could be found as we analysed the operation and structure of the garment. But it is not easy to predict the problem to be happened even though we prepare the approval sample. It would be created in actual production as the above capti

47、oned causes.Stitch, Seam and Stitch ingStitch Formation:Defin iti on of StitchA stitch is one unit of con formati on of thread result ing from repeatedly pass ing a stra nd or stra nds and /or a loop or loops of thread into or through a material at uniformly spaced intervals to form a series of stit

48、ches.British Stan dard classificati on of Stitch typesSince the inven ti on of the sew ing mach in e, improveme nts, adva nces and cha nges in machines and in the art of sewing have resulted in many new stitches and mach ine types. These differe nt types are referred to by n ames or terms which very

49、 widely throughout the industry. To avoid the confusion caused by this multiplicity of names it is proposed, hereafter, to refer to stitches according to the British Standard scheme, set out in BS 3870: 1965 which classifies stitches as show n below.For the sake of precision in describing these stit

50、ches the following three terms are defined in the British Standard.In terloop ing: The pass ing of a loop of thread through ano ther loop formed by a differe nt thread.In traloop ing: The pass ing of a loop of thread through ano ther loop formed by a same thread.In terlac ing : The pass ing of a thr

51、ead over or around ano ther thread or loop of ano ther thread.ClassificationStitches are divided into eight classes, within each of which are several types of stitch. The characteristics of each class are indicated below together with some typical applicati ons.Stitch Class:100 SINGLE THREAD CHAINST

52、ITCH200 HANDSTITCH300 LOCKSTITCH400 TWO-THREAD CHAINSTITCH (MULTI- THREAD CHAINSTITCH)500 OVEREDGE STITCH (OVERLOCK STITCH)600 COVERING STITCH (FLAT SEAM STITCH)700 SINGLE-THREAD LOCKSTITCH800 COMBINATION STITCHStitch Class 100 ChainstitchThese are formed by one or more threads in troduced from one

53、side of the material only. Sin gle thread cha in stitches are ofte n used for temporary stitch ing (e.g. basti ng) or for bli nd stitch ing. Particular care is required to preve nt run back from the last stitch.Stitch Class 200 Hand StitchThis class of stitch is formed by hand with one or more n eed

54、le-threads and has for a gen eral characteristic that each n eedle-thread passes through the material as a single line of thread and the stitch is secured by the single line of thread passing in and out of the material or intralooping of the threads with themselves. When more tha n one thread is use

55、d, the threads pass through the same perforatio ns in the material (e.g. type 201 Saddle stitch). Origination as hand stitches they are now ofte n formed by mach in es.Stitch Class 300 LockstitchLock stitches are formed by a n eedle thread or threads, i ntroduced from one side of the material, inter

56、lacing with an underthread supplied from a bobbin on the other side. The simplest, type 301, has similar appeara nee on both sides with low bulk when correctly balaneed and tight strong seams can be produced with good stre ngth and abrasi on resista nee. Its disadva ntage is the limited len gth of s

57、ew ing possible before having to replace the bobbin. In applications requiring stretch, types 304, 321 or 322 can be used where in successive stitches form a 1, 2, or 3 step zig-zag patter n.Stitch Class 400 Two-thread Chainstitch (Multi-thread Chainstitch)These differ from Class 100 stitch types in

58、 that a separate un der or looper thread is used and this gen erally lies on the un derside of the material, the n eedle thread(s) being drawn through to balance the stitch.These stitches are sometimes referred to as Double Locked Stitches (not to be con fused with Class 300) because each n eedle th

59、read loop is in terc onn ected with two loops of one un derthread. Several n eedle threads may be used in conjun cti on with one looper thread.Because of the stitch geometry the two thread cha in stitch type 401 is stro nger than a similar lockstitch and less likely to cause seam pucker due to struc

60、tural jammin g. It is capable of being formed at lower tensions, thereby in creas ing seam stretch and has a productivity advantage over the lockstitch because the threads are fed directly from long edge packages without the interference of bobbin windin g/cha nging.The disadva ntages are that it ha

61、s lower resista nce to run back and in creased bulk under the seam. However, these effects may be minimised by the use of a fibrous or textured thread in the looper. The looper thread can gen erally be one size finer tha n the n eedle thread without loss of stre ngth. They may also be sew n in a zig

62、zag patter n to in crease seam stretch as in types 404 and 405.This class of stitch may be formed from one or more n eedle an d/or looper threads with at least one thread pass ing round the edge of the material being sew n. There may be many variati ons within this class, i ncorporat ing from one to

63、 four threads, only one of which is n eedle thread. They are gen erally used to n eate n the cut edge of a single ply of fabric or to seam or neaten the edge of two plies in one operation particularly in knitwear since this stitch configuration has excellent stretch and recovery properties when sewn

64、 with suitable threads. The needle thread determines strength, while the looper threads are chosen for best appeara nee and soft ness.Also in this class are a nu mber of stitch types, which in corporate three or four threads, two of which are n eedle threads. The sec ond n eedle thread, being furthe

65、r from the cut edge, gives greater security to the seam compared to the single n eedle vers ion. As the looper thread runs betwee n the two n eedle threads un der the fabric these seams also have good exte nsibility.Stitch Class 600 Covering Stitch (Flat Seam Stitch)The stitch types in this class utilise between two and four needle threads, gen erally one looper thread and one or two cover threads. The cover threads(s) lie on the to